ANIS étoilé: Building food sovereignty in Europe from the grassroots

ANIS étoilé (pronounced ah-neece ay-twa-lay) is a non-profit food sovereignty advocacy organization based in Auvergne, France, a rich farming area with an impressive volcanic landscape. Because the soil has been enriched by volcanic action over millennia, Auvergne is an area of high and varied agricultural production. The area is also an important hub for food sovereignty activism. The organization is leading our upcoming tour “France: Food Sovereignty and Artisan Production,” Sept. 15 – 25.

ANIS étoilé was established in 2006 by environmental educator Nathalie Gregoris and food scientist and activist Céline Porcheron. Together, they formed an association and a board with local citizens, farmers and food professionals. ANIS étoilé focuses on education in its broadest sense, providing pedagogic programs for children; adult education workshops and “train the trainer”; and special events like film screenings, debates and community dinners. They also have an important presence in local politics, educating policy-makers about food justice and sustainability issues.

“People don’t always realize the complexity of what food sovereignty is,” comments co-founder Céline Porcheron, “Food sovereignty is the ability of a country to decide on its own food system. However, in France we have been very influenced by outside forces and this is harming our people and our way of life.” For example, France now imports soy, mostly genetically modified, from the Americas, which creates economic dependency. The country also grows corn, which is very water-intensive, for use as industrial cattle feed.

One factor that differentiates France is the continued strength of its labor unions. France’s largest utility union, for example, even provides summer retreats and educational programs for its members and their families. Based on the socialist ideal of providing cultural education for all levels of society, the retreats offer programs focused on music and dance, art, science, and of course, food. ANIS étoilé partners with the union to provide cooking workshops to its members and tours of organic farms. This partnership is one of the many innovative ways ANIS étoilé educates French citizens about food and promotes sustainable agriculture in France.

Currently, only 2% of France’s food production is organic. Although genetically modified foods are for the most part banned in France and many other European countries, GMOs have entered the country. France is the 3^rd largest producer, and largest consumer, of agrochemicals in Europe. Because of this, the pesticide industry maintains a strong political and economic influence in France.

One of the first things people want to know is, “What does ANIS étoilé mean?” In English, it means star anise, an Indian spice that is sweet and warming. The acronym ANIS stands for “Agriculture, Nutrition and Intercultural Solidarity.” Co-founder Gregoris explained: “At ANIS étoilé, we want to change the world through the medium of food. Food sovereignty and sustainability is a metaphor for all of the important issues facing the world today. We must maintain our solidarity as we use our collective imagination to think big about changing the world.”