Basque Marmitako, a Traditional Fishers’ Stew

In the beautiful port town of Lekeitio, in the Spanish Basque Country, fishermen and women sell their daily catch at the Plaza Arranegi market near the harbor. Located on the Bay of Biscay (also known as the Cantabria Sea), Lekeitio is one of the most important fishing ports in the Spanish Basque Country. Here, fishing boats proudly fly the Basque flag and the food is a celebration of Basque products, traditions and the struggle for sovereignty.

Marmitako, a stew that combines Basque products from both land and sea, is a typical dish that you will find in Lekeitio. The meal was traditionally prepared on fishing boats in the Bay of Biscay, but is now commonly found throughout the Basque Country. While each province adds its own local flavors, fish and potatoes are always at the heart of this dish. I prepared it using the simple recipe below.

Being an ethical fish consumer can be tricky. As I discovered, even the fishmonger at my neighborhood organic-foodie-supermarket (which shall remain nameless) could tell me shockingly little about where and how the fish had been caught. Luckily, I had come prepared with my Smart Seafood Guide—an indispensable tool for the conscientious pescavore. Marmitako is traditionally made with Atlantic bonito, a fish very similar to Skipjack tuna and often used as a cheaper substitute for skipjack. But being in California, I went with the more readily available Pacific albacore tuna. Both fish rate well on the sustainability scale.

There are also Marmitako recipes that substitute salmon for tuna. Clearly, for a fishers’ stew, the key factor is availability. You can prepare this dish with just about any fresh, locally available seafood.

Heat oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and sauté the bell pepper, onion, potatoes, chilies and garlic until tender. Add the paprika and briefly cook to toast, continually stirring to avoid burning. Add wine, tomatoes, one cup stock and seasonings. Stir well and cook on medium heat for about 20 minutes until soup thickens and potatoes are tender, adding more stock if needed. Add the tuna and parsley, cooking and stirring for about 2 minutes until the tuna has changed color. Serve with crusty bread.

[i] If you use smoked paprika, you may want to go lighter than 1 tbsp, as the smoky flavor can be quite intense