La Cucina Povera: Polenta, the Humble Grain

A versatile Italian dish that showcases the simple elegance of peasant food

Before becoming a regular fixture of Italian fine dining, polenta had quite humble beginnings. Originally favored by peasants in northern Italy as a cheap and filling dish, this simple cornmeal porridge has overcome a tumultuous history to become a widely appreciated Italian comfort food.

Today’s polenta has evolved over the centuries, with its roots reaching back to the Roman Empire. Roman soldiers subsisted on a ration of grains, which were ground up and boiled into a porridge called pulmentum—the linguistic and culinary origins of modern-day polenta. Until the introduction of corn to northern Italy in the 1400s, polenta referred to any such dish, which was then made from millet, barley or chestnut flour.

Maize arrived in northern Italy via trade routes from the Ottoman east (Italians referred to the grain as granoturco or “Turkish grain”) shortly before Columbus stumbled upon the Americas. Initially, the crop was welcomed as easy and cheap animal fodder, but was considered unfit for human consumption. As corn cultivation took hold in northern Italy, where soil conditions were especially suitable for the crop, the grain was adapted to traditional culinary preparations and polenta as we know it today was born.

Polenta’s path from humble peasant food to international culinary sensation was a difficult one. During the food shortages of the eighteenth century, the dish took hold as a staple among the peasantry because maize was cheap and easy to grow. Consequently, polenta was regarded negatively as a “peasant food”—today, remnants of this classicism are found in pejorative nicknames such as polentone. Moreover, heavy reliance on maize that was not properly nixtamalized (treated with alkali to release the essential nutrient niacin), contributed to an outbreak of pellagra in the northern Italian peasantry—even resulting in a temporary ban on corn—until scientific advancements helped identify and address the nutritional deficiencies. On top of the classist associations and a national health crisis, polenta was laborious and time-consuming to prepare. Traditionally, the cornmeal was simmered for hours in a paiolo, a curved-bottom copper pot used exclusively for making polenta, over a central hearth or wood fire stove. Constant attention and stirring was required to prevent the polenta from sticking and burning.

Yet, despite such inauspicious beginnings, polenta has risen in respectability and popularity; advancements in cooking technology have made it possible for more people to appreciate the dish’s remarkable and simple versatility. Modern stoves and cookware now make polenta easy enough to prepare for a weeknight meal—and once the basic preparation is mastered, the variety of toppings and textures allow for a wealth of personal creativity. Most commonly served creamy like porridge (akin to southern grits), polenta is the perfect vehicle for any number of sauces and fixings. When left to cool, the creamy porridge transforms into a dense loaf (in fact, polenta supplied an early form of unleavened bread), which can then be grilled, baked or fried. Creamy or firm, sweet or savory, polenta’s possibilities are endless, which has no doubt contributed to its growing presence in home kitchens and restaurants alike.

Fueled at least in part by polenta’s national—and increasingly global—popularity, Italy remains a major consumer and producer of corn (seventh and eighth in the world, respectively). However, the introduction of genetically modified (GM) corn to Europe is threatening the distinctiveness of Italian maize. The last few years have seen a heavy push for GM corn in response to country’s pesticide and drought problems. Proponents argue that GM corn has the potential to give farmers more of the security that American corn growers revel in, but this continues to be heavily debated.

Citing concerns about negative impacts on biodiversity and agriculture, three Italian ministries signed a decree last July to ban Monsanto’s MON810 maize. So far, MON810 is only the second GM crop that can be legally sold in Europe, but January saw an EU proposal to approve a new strain of GM corn called Pioneer 1507—and more varieties are surely yet to come.

Those same simple ingredients represent a complex struggle that Italian farmers face as they work to defend their diverse farming systems, strengthen their communities and promote food sovereignty.

“The protection of Italian distinctiveness must be a policy priority since it determines the existence of ‘Made in Italy,’ which is our engine, our future, our leverage to return to growth in the food industry,” stated Sergio Marini, president of Coldiretti, Italy’s biggest farmers’ group. A recent survey conducted by the organization found that 80 percent of Italians support the ban, reflecting Italians’ strong sense of pride in their food as a national treasure.

The rise of polenta is emblematic of la cucina povera and the philosophy that even the humblest of ingredients can be transformed into wholesome and sensational dishes. Those same simple ingredients represent a complex struggle that Italian farmers face as they work to defend their diverse farming systems, strengthen their communities and promote food sovereignty.

Creamy Polenta and Mushroom Ragu
Adapted from the Kitchn
Makes 4 servings

Ingredients

For the Ragu
1 medium onion diced
½ cup carrot diced
½ cup celery diced
2 cups chopped mushrooms (crimini or porcini preferred, but any type will do)
4 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic diced
1 can peeled tomatoes, drained, rinsed, and pressed
1 cup red wine (may use vegetable or chicken broth instead)
Salt and Pepper to season

For the Polenta
4 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup polenta or yellow cornmeal (Golden Pheasant is a favorite)
1 cup cheese, such as parmesan or mozzarella (optional)
1–3 tablespoons butter to finish (optional)

Instructions

Prepare the Ragu

1. In a large saucepan, add butter and onion over medium heat, stir occasionally until onions begin to become translucent. Add in carrots, celery, garlic and red wine, let simmer and reduce for about 8–10 minutes.
2. Add in peeled tomatoes, salt and pepper (additional spices to add would be rosemary or thyme, a teaspoon would suffice). If more liquid is needed, add a ½ cup of chicken or vegetable broth with the tomatoes. Stir occasionally for about 10–15 minutes.

Prepare the Polenta

1. Bring water to a boil in a medium-sized pot over medium-high heat then add salt.
2. Add the polenta to the boiling water while stirring gently with a whisk.
3. Continue whisking until polenta has thickened. Reduce heat to low and continue whisking until the polenta has thickened enough that it doesn’t settle back onto the bottom of the pan when you stop stirring.
4. Cover and cook the polenta for 30–40 minutes, stirring vigorously every 10 minutes or so. Make sure to scrape the sides, bottom, and corners of the pan to prevent burning. Cook 30 minutes for softer porridge-like polenta or 40 minutes for a thicker consistency
5. If desired, stir in cheese and butter into the polenta. Serve immediately, or cover and remove from heat for up to 15 minutes before serving.

To Serve

Dish 1 cup of polenta into a bowl, then top with ½–¾ cup ragu. Finish with a 2-inch round of fresh mozzarella; add over-easy egg if desired, and salt and pepper to taste.

Notes:

• A combination of vegetable or chicken broth and milk or cream can be used to boost the flavor and texture of the polenta, just stick to a 1-to-3 ratio of cornmeal to liquid.
• The trick to polenta is regular stirring, however be careful once ingredients heat up and combine they will begin to bubble and pop, causing the searing hot polenta to splatter. This however typically only occurs as the polenta is nearly finished, and an apron and long sleeves should be all the protection you need.
• Avoid using instant polenta, which is akin to instant mashed potatoes in terms of quality and flavor.
• Add a modern twist by topping with an over-easy egg.
• Leftover polenta will set into the shape of whatever container it is left in. Once firm, it can be sliced or cubed for roasting, grilling, or frying. To restore creaminess, warm with a little broth, milk, or water and stir vigorously.