Pipérade: A Basque version of classic comfort food

According to renowned Basque chef Gerald Hirigoyen, “Pipérade is a quintessential Basque dish that combines the signature ingredients: tomatoes, onion, garlic, chiles, and controversy.” Hirigoyen is owner of the San Francisco restaurant named after the dish.

With controversy on the ingredient list, I figured taking some license with my interpretation of this dish would be appropriate. Rather than the Anaheim chiles that Hirigoyen recommends, I used a combination of dried red chiles and fresh green bell pepper. And since I wanted a quick and easy dish after a long winter work day, I went with canned tomatoes instead of fresh. No doubt, if I made this in August when California is swimming in juicy tomatoes, things would have been a little different. But, in keeping with the simplicity and flexibility of the dish, which in my opinion is one of the main reasons why it is so lovely, I went with what I had on hand.

Since it was in my cupboard, I used pimenton de la vera, a smoky Spanish paprika instead of the classic, piment d’espelette for seasoning. The consensus after the meal was that the smokiness brought to the recipe with my non-traditional seasoning was ultimately one of its best qualities…I’m beginning to see how the right way to make this dish could get controversial.

Pipérade is not only flexible in its flavors. It is one of those dishes whose place on the table is determined entirely by the chef. If you want to call it a dip – it’s an appetizer. If you add eggs and serve it with bread, like I did – it makes a mighty fine main course. Many Basque recipes serve pipérade with a piece of sautéed ham alongside, or I imagine some sausage or ground meat would bulk it up nicely. A quick glance around the globe will show you that the concept of tomatoes stewed with onions and maybe eggs, pops up in many forms from Italian Ragu to Israeli Shakshuka. The Basque version, however, is certainly a great go-to. Here’s my take on Hirigoyen’s Basque classic:

Pipérade, adapted from The Basque Kitchen

Ingredients:

Directions:

Warm olive oil in a large – mid size frying pan (cast iron is ideal). Add diced onions and garlic. Cook on medium heat until onions become translucent.

Add chiles and bell pepper, cook for another 5 minute. Stir in tomatoes, sugar, pimenton de la vera, and bay leaf. Season with salt, to taste. Add more chiles if spice is needed, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 25 minutes. Break the eggs directly into the pan and stir the ingredients until the eggs are set and evenly distributed (alternatively you could leave the eggs unstirred to poach in the tomatoes á la Shakshuka of Israel).

Cook 5 minutes longer. Discard bay leaf and serve with grated cheese on top accompanied by a slice of an olive loaf or your favorite crusty bread. Enjoy!